The ultimate guide to cavity wall insulation

The ultimate guide to cavity wall insulation

If your home was built after the 1920s, the chances are that it’s got cavity walls. And unless it was built within the last 10 years, those cavities are probably empty. If so, filling them with wall insulation could be a very cost-effective way to retain heat in your home and save on your energy bills.Bottom of Form

Around one third of the heat loss from most homes is through the walls, so cavity insulation could save you up to £160 a year in heating bills. In fact, according to these figures from the Energy Saving Trust website it could pay for itself within less than 5 years.

Type of property Detached Semi detached Mid terrace Bungalow Flat
Energy bill savings (£ pa) £275 £160 £105 £110 £90
Average payback period £720 £475 £370 £430 £330
CO2 savings per year 32 months 36 months 43 months 47 months 45 months
CO2 savings per year 1,100 kg 650 kg 430 kg 450 kg 360 kg

[1] http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/domestic/cavity-wall

These are estimated figures for England, Scotland and Wales, based on insulating a gas-heated home. The actual payback time will depend on the date when the insulation is installed, as the amount saved each month will vary between winter and summer. The average installation cost shown here is unsubsidised.

What is a cavity wall?

A cavity wall is one made out of two separate thin walls (usually built of brick, and known as ‘skins’ or ‘leaves’) with a gap (or cavity) between them. They are held together by metal wall ties.

How can I tell if I have cavity walls?

As we mentioned above, the age of your home is the first clue. However, if you’re not sure how old it is, or you reckon it was built around 1930 so could be either a cavity or a solid wall, have a look at any exposed brickwork. If your home has cavity walls, the bricks will all look the same size, like this:

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… but if the walls are solid, every other brick will probably have been placed end-on, like this:

insulation

If all the brickwork in your home has been rendered or cladded so you can’t see any actual bricks, you may be able to tell from the thickness of the outer walls. Check the windows and doorways: if a brick wall is more than 10 inches thick, it’s probably a cavity wall. However, solid stone walls can also be very thick.

My home doesn’t have brick walls – can I insulate it?

  • If your house has stone walls, they’re most likely to be solid, with no cavities to insulate. See our Ultimate guide to solid wall insulation <link to new guide> for alternative ideas.
  • If you live in a timber- or steel-framed building, or your home is built of pre-fab concrete, they won’t have cavity walls, but you may be able to insulate them in another way. To find a suitable local installer, get in touch with the National Insulation Association.
  • If a contractor suggests injecting wall cavity insulation between the outer brick leaf and the inner frame of your timber-framed home, don’t accept this as it can cause serious damage.

Is cavity wall insulation suitable for my home?

You should only consider cavity wall insulation if:

  • Your home has unfilled cavity walls made of brick.
  • The cavities are at least 2 inches / 50 millimetres wide.
  • The brickwork or masonry is in good condition.
  • Your external walls are accessible. If some are joined to a neighbouring house, the installer will need to insert a cavity barrier, (brushing off) which could add to the costs. Installers may also be reluctant to work around garages, conservatories or extensions.
  • Your home is less than 12 metres (about 4 storeys) high.
  • Your internal walls are dry. Wet wall insulation is worse than no wall insulation, so if you have any damp patches, you’ll need to get the cause sorted out before installing insulation. For the same reason, cavity insulation is not suitable if the walls are regularly exposed to driving rain.
  • There are no areas of steel- or timber-framed construction.

Cavity wall insulation is only suitable for your home if you can answer ‘yes’ to all these points,

Some timber-framed homes look exactly as though they’re built of brick – but of course they’re not. These buildings are not suitable for cavity wall insulation, as they need the cavity to allow moisture to escape. If you’re not sure whether your home is built in this style, check up in the attic. If your party or gable walls are made of timber instead of brick, you’ve got a timber-framed house.

How can I tell if my walls have already been insulated?

If your home was built in the last 20 years, the walls were probably insulated when it was built. If not, or if you want to make sure, you can:

  • Ask a registered installer to drill a small hole in the wall and let you know whether the wall is empty or insulated. This is called a borescope inspection.
  • Check with the building control department of your local authority. They should have records if your walls have already been insulated.

There are also a couple of clues to look out for that could save you the trouble of a borescope inspection:

  • Installers will have drilled 1-inch holes at regular intervals when inserting the wall cavity insulation. Although they’ll have filled these in, you should still be able to see faint marks – but don’t confuse them with the marks left by an injected damp proof course.
  • Check in your attic – the cavity insulation material may be spilling out at the top of the wall. However, this is not a good thing, so you should probably get a professional to clear it up and seal off the wall.

Can I install wall cavity insulation myself?

Only if you’re a trained and qualified wall insulation installer.

What does the work involve?

Your installer should start by checking the walls are suitable, in good condition and free from damp. They will then drill a series of small holes, blow the insulation into the cavity with special equipment and fill in the holes with mortar afterwards.

A professional installer should be able to complete the work in around 2 hours for an average-sized house with easy-to-access walls. They should ‘make good’ when they’ve finished and make sure you’re not left with any mess.

They should not need to enter your house for work purposes at all (although of course they may need to use your loo).

Not long after the work is complete, you should be sent a guarantee issued by the Cavity Insulation Guarantee Agency (CIGA), and your installer should give you written confirmation that the work complies with building regulations. Your local authority or CIGA may also come around to carry out a spot check to make sure the work is of an acceptable standard.

What kind of cavity insulation will they install?

kind

Cavity wall insulation can be mineral fibre wool, polystyrene granules (also known as beads) or polyurethane foam. They should all be manufactured to British standards.

Mineral woolBeads and granulesFoam
 is used most often. It’s like the mineral ‘quilt’ insulation used in lofts but broken up into small tufts so it can be blown into the walls. It must be kept absolutely dry, or it loses its ability to insulate, and it may settle over time, creating air pockets at the top of the walls.
are also popular, as they trap heat very efficiently and create gap-free wall insulation. However, loose granules have been known to escape through airbricks and can gush out if you ever need to have work done that involves drilling or cutting into the wall. This type of insulation can let bits of moisture drain through and to the ground so it doesn’t get retained in the wall cavity and cause damp issues.
offers thermal cavity wall insulation, but installation is tricky and needs expert attention, and some foams have been known to degrade in the long term. This is not a popular product used by installers.

 

How do I find a good installer?

Visit one of these websites:

  • The British Board of Agrèment (BBA) – click on ‘installer search’.
  • The Cavity Insulation Guarantee Agency (CIGA) – click on ‘find an installer’.
  • The National Insulation Association (NIA) – click on ‘find your nearest installer’.

Remember, work like this only qualifies for a guarantee if it’s carried out by a fully qualified professional who has signed up to appropriate codes of practice.

So before you confirm the booking, make sure that:

  • A careless installer could block flues or airbricks.
  • They might blow insulation materials out of the top of the walls into your loft, or even into next door.
  • If they fail to distribute the material evenly, it could create air pockets. These can lead to cold areas on your internal walls, causing patches of condensation and mould.
  • The cavity insulation might cause the wall ties holding your walls together to rust. However, this should only happen if damp gets in because your brickwork is crumbling or is often exposed to torrential rain such as in wind driven rain areas – so you really shouldn’t have chosen cavity wall insulation to start with.

There’s a whole host of positive reasons to have cavity wall insulation installed, as long as your property is the correct type of property and the contractor doing the work is qualified and professional and follows the BBA guidelines.

If you suspect foul play has happened with your installation, if you have signs of mould or damp or condensation, blocked air vents, bad brickwork or pointing, then there’s a high chance your insulation is causing problems. You might not have signs of damp or mould, you might have a damp smell around the house, or you might not have any of these signs yet, ‘yet’ being the main word to focus here.

It is best to enquire with Wall Cavity Claims about a free, no obligation cavity inspection surveyor to visit your property and undertake a full review and report their findings to us. If we feel there are grounds there which can cause issues, we can recommend a specialist panel solicitor who works on a No Win No Fee service.

Or call us FREEPHONE – from landlines & mobiles – call 0800-8-654321

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Toxic Black Mould

Black mould, Stachybotrys, Aspergillus, toxic black mould…whatever you want to call it, internal damp problems can cause serious damage, not only to the appearance of home but to the structure of the property and your health.

wall

Internal damp problems can lead to the deterioration of masonry, cause plaster to crumble, wooden beams and floorboards to decay and leave bubbling on your plaster work and wallpaper. Some people think a spot of paint or some wall paper is going to fix the problem… unfortunately not.

wall5

As a society we are people that will live with certain conditions by “putting a plaster over it”. How many times have you tried to clean damp on walls with bleach or other chemicals thinking that spending £2 is going to solve all your problems? If you have had cavity wall insulation carried out and you are suffering with damp spots in your house, then you owe it to yourself to get it checked.

Your home is the most expensive asset you will ever purchase, so keeping it healthy and in good condition will pay off in the long run. Should there be a time where you want to sell your home, future purchasers will be more aware of damp problems that damaged cavity wall insulation can cause, and be less interested in buying properties that have these issues, needless to say can reduce the value of your home.

If you’ve had wall cavity insulation installed in your home in the last 15 years, call us Freephone and enquire about our free, no obligation qualified cavity insulation surveyors. And if they identify faults, our panel of specialist solicitors can represent you on a full  No Win No Fee service .

 Wall Cavity Claims – WE work for YOU – Tel: 0800-8-654321 

You might not have any issues showing currently, but that doesn’t mean your cavity insulation has been fitted correctly or isn’t causing unseen damage. Without specialist equipment to view your cavity and know what you are looking for, you won’t know until it starts to show the damage.

WHAT IF YOU HAVE DAMP PROBLEMS IN YOUR HOUSE?

Rising damp, penetrating damp and condensation are the three most common types of damp that can affect your home. But each needs to be treated in different ways, and the costs can vary dramatically, so it’s important to know what type of damp is affecting your home before you try to get it fixed.

If you have had Cavity Wall Insulation fitted, then that could be a whole bigger issue.

Our image gallery below will help you to identify the type of damp or mould, and you can scroll down to find out what could be causing it. Once you’ve done this, you can then find out how to prevent it.

 


Living in a property with mould can be bad for your health, so it’s important to get it sorted as soon as possible.  The worse the situation gets, the more it’s likely to cost to remove and repair any damage.

What is a damp-proof course?

newimage

The walls of houses generally have a barrier in them to stop rising damp from getting into walls. This is often a horizontal plastic or bitumen felt strip in the wall, 15cm above the ground level. Building regulations came into force in 1875, specifying that these had to be built into houses, so older houses may not have one.


What is a damp-proof membrane?

newimage

A damp-proof membrane (DPM) is a membrane material applied to prevent moisture transmission. A common example is polyethylene sheeting laid under a concrete slab to prevent the concrete from gaining moisture through capillary action. A DPM may be used for the DPC.


What is a chemical damp proof course?

newimage

A chemical damp course is installed by drilling holes at least 15 centimetres above the ground level fairly close together and feeding in a chemical compound that repels damp. Most houses that have had this done, you will be able to see the drill holes along the building on all exposed sides.

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What is a damp proof course?

damp proof course (DPC) is a key weapon in the fight against damp homes. Damp is one of the most common property problems encountered in British homes and can cause significant problems.

Often it is damage to the appearance of a property that people notice first, but it is the structure of the property where the real problems occur. Cracks to masonry, crumbling plaster and rotting timbers are all common consequence of damp, not to mention the damp inside the home causing mould and damage to furnishings, and even more worrying to your health.

dr1

The damp proof course is, most commonly, a layer of damp proofing material or slate laid between the bricks near to ground level of the property when the property is being built. If installed correctly it should stop damp rising from the ground into the walls of the property. There’s no real figures available that say how long this style of damp course actually lasts. Properties that were built in the 1930s – 1960’s would mean this type of damp proof course is well over 50 years old.

DPC’s also work in conjunction with cavity walls by taking moisture that enters the cavity and channelling it back out of the property. If a damp proof course fails or is absent they are often replaced by a chemical damp proof course.

ti7

A chemical damp proof course can usually be recognised by the small drill holes that it leaves behind when the perimeter of the building is drilled for the chemical damp course to be sprayed into these holes. The above graphic is a perfect example of where the chemical damp course has been done directly above where the original damp proof membrane would have been.

A missing damp proof course, or one that has been compromised by rendering over it, meaning the wall below the damp proof has been bridged with the wall above the damp proof, is one of the main reasons for failed cavity wall insulation. In these instances, damp will not be able to exit the cavity, leading to damp insulation material which can then affect the internal wall.

A DPC is just one form of damp proofing, other popular methods include:

  • Damp-proof membrane (DPM) is a material such as polyethylene applied to prevent moisture moving through the property.
  • Integral damp proofing can occur in the construction stage by adding materials to the concrete mix which repel moisture.
  • Waterproofing the exterior of the building to offer additional resistance against rain.
  • Pressure grouting cracks and joints in masonry to resist the ingress of water.

Many people react to damp issues by sealing their properties, but it is often the opposite approach, allowing your home to breathe, which is the right approach.

If your home cavities have been insulated with rock wool and are exposed to damp, the rock wool will sook up a considerable amount of water and retain it. QUICK VIDEO

This will make the wall cold and damp, drawing heat from the inside of the home to the outside, having the opposite required effect for what it was installed for, and can allow moisture to travel inwards and cause damp and mould in your home.

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WHAT TO CHECK

Choosing cavity wall insulation

In many properties, cavity wall insulation can help save energy and cut fuel bills. But what should you consider before making the decision to have it installed in your home? And what should you expect from a reputable installer?

Things to look out for throughout the cavity wall insulation process, to help you spot potential problems early.

Before the survey:
How old is your house and do you have cavity walls?

If your home was built in the last 10 years, it is likely that the cavity is already insulated. Most cavity walls are in houses built from the 1920s onwards. Use this Energy Saving Trust guide to tell if your house has cavity walls. 

Where is your house situated?

If the walls of your home are regularly exposed to wind-driven rain, they may be unsuitable for cavity wall insulation. Some houses are more exposed to the elements than others, for example, if they are on a hill or by the coast. South-westerly facing properties are most susceptible.

xtr

Do you have damp problems?

Not everyone who has damp problems is aware of them, but if you already have issues with damp, cavity wall insulation can make the problems worse. If you have damp walls, black mould or fungus problems or water ingress, or if your home smells damp and musty, you should get a professional to advise on whether you have damp. Installing insulation before any damp issue is rectified is highly advised against.

Are there cracks or damage to the outside walls?

If the walls of your home are not in good condition, rainwater can penetrate the outside wall and make the insulation (and the inside of the house) damp. The house should be in good repair before cavity wall insulation is installed.

During the survey:

Did the surveyor look both inside and outside the property?

A proper survey should be more than a quick ten-minute walk around the outside of the house. The surveyor should look inside and out and consider all the potential problems, as well as making thorough notes on what the installer should bring (amounts of insulation, vents, airbricks, brushes to separate off neighbouring properties with adjoining walls etc).

Did they drill a hole in the wall and look inside using a cavity camera?

This is to see whether there is already insulation in the property, but also to see if the cavity is clear. If there is rubble in the cavity or if there are mortar droppings on the wall ties, this can stop cavity wall insulation going into the walls evenly. If there are gaps, these can cause cold spots which can lead to damp problems.

Did they ask questions about damp problems in your home?

See above. If you already have issues with damp, cavity wall insulation can make the problems worse.

Did they note vents, boiler flues, driveway levels, open fires, oblique chimney breasts and timber-suspended floors?

These can affect both whether the installation can go ahead and the way it is carried out.

After the installation:

Are you getting damp patches, black mould, oblique condensation? Is the house noticeably colder than before?

All these are warning signs that either the house was unsuitable or that the installation was not successful. In the first instance, contact the company who installed the insulation. If they are not able to resolve the problems, and your installation was done by a company which is registered withCIGA (the Cavity Insulation Guarantee Agency), contact them as well. Keep a record diary of all the problems (including photos) and of all the correspondence between you, the company and CIGA.

CIGA have been reported to deny any responsibility and tell house owners that the damp problems are down to bad property maintenance. It is important you have qualified advice and may be best to seek independent legal advice as the costs involved could be many thousands of pounds.

Wall Cavity Claims have a panel of specialist solicitors to represent clients on a No Win No Fee service. They instruct a qualified surveyor to visit your property and if the surveyors report highlights faults which can be attributed to the installer, installation or materials, or any other factor, your file can be referred to a panel solicitor with qualified evidence.

Wall Cavity Claims currently covers the whole of the North West, and will be rolling the service out nationally in the coming weeks.

Or call us FREEPHONE – from landlines & mobiles – call 0800-8-654321

Thinking of having wall cavity insulation installed?

Choosing cavity wall insulation

In many properties, cavity wall insulation can help save energy and cut fuel bills. But what should you consider before making the decision to have it installed in your home? And what should you expect from a reputable installer?

Things to look out for throughout the cavity wall insulation process, to help you spot potential problems early.

Before the survey:
How old is your house and do you have cavity walls?

If your home was built in the last 10 years, it is likely that the cavity is already insulated. Most cavity walls are in houses built from the 1920s onwards. Use this Energy Saving Trust guide to tell if your house has cavity walls. 

Where is your house situated?

If the walls of your home are regularly exposed to wind-driven rain, they may be unsuitable for cavity wall insulation. Some houses are more exposed to the elements than others, for example, if they are on a hill or by the coast. South-westerly facing properties are most susceptible.

xtr

Do you have damp problems?

Not everyone who has damp problems is aware of them, but if you already have issues with damp, cavity wall insulation can make the problems worse. If you have damp walls, black mould or fungus problems or water ingress, or if your home smells damp and musty, you should get a professional to advise on whether you have damp. Installing insulation before any damp issue is rectified is highly advised against.

Are there cracks or damage to the outside walls?

If the walls of your home are not in good condition, rainwater can penetrate the outside wall and make the insulation (and the inside of the house) damp. The house should be in good repair before cavity wall insulation is installed.

During the survey:

Did the surveyor look both inside and outside the property?

A proper survey should be more than a quick ten-minute walk around the outside of the house. The surveyor should look inside and out and consider all the potential problems, as well as making thorough notes on what the installer should bring (amounts of insulation, vents, airbricks, brushes to separate off neighbouring properties with adjoining walls etc).

Did they drill a hole in the wall and look inside using a cavity camera?

This is to see whether there is already insulation in the property, but also to see if the cavity is clear. If there is rubble in the cavity or if there are mortar droppings on the wall ties, this can stop cavity wall insulation going into the walls evenly. If there are gaps, these can cause cold spots which can lead to damp problems.

Did they ask questions about damp problems in your home?

See above. If you already have issues with damp, cavity wall insulation can make the problems worse.

Did they note vents, boiler flues, driveway levels, open fires, oblique chimney breasts and timber-suspended floors?

These can affect both whether the installation can go ahead and the way it is carried out.

After the installation:

Are you getting damp patches, black mould, oblique condensation? Is the house noticeably colder than before?

All these are warning signs that either the house was unsuitable or that the installation was not successful. In the first instance, contact the company who installed the insulation. If they are not able to resolve the problems, and your installation was done by a company which is registered withCIGA (the Cavity Insulation Guarantee Agency), contact them as well. Keep a record diary of all the problems (including photos) and of all the correspondence between you, the company and CIGA.

CIGA have been reported to deny any responsibility and tell house owners that the damp problems are down to bad property maintenance. It is important you have qualified advice and may be best to seek independent legal advice as the costs involved could be many thousands of pounds.

Wall Cavity Claims have a panel of specialist solicitors to represent clients on a No Win No Fee service. They instruct a qualified surveyor to visit your property and if the surveyors report highlights faults which can be attributed to the installer, installation or materials, or any other factor, your file can be referred to a panel solicitor with qualified evidence.

Wall Cavity Claims currently covers the whole of the North West, and will be rolling the service out nationally in the coming weeks.

Or call us FREEPHONE – from landlines & mobiles – call 0800-8-654321

HAVE I GOT WALL CAVITY INSULATION?

If your house was built after the 1920s, it is likely to have cavity walls. Older houses are more likely to have solid walls. If your home was built in the last 10 years, it was probably built with insulation installed at the time.

If you can see the brickwork on the outside of the house, look at the pattern of the bricks. If your home has cavity walls, the bricks will usually have a regular pattern like this:

insulation

If your home has solid walls, the bricks will have an alternating pattern like this:

p2

If the brickwork has been covered by render, you can also tell by measuring the width of the wall.  Examine a window or door on one of your external walls. If a brick wall is more than 3000mm thick, (from the outer wall to inner wall) then it probably has a cavity; a narrower wall is probably solid. Stone walls may be thicker still but are usually solid.
If your house is a steel-frame or timber-framed building, or is made from pre-fabricated concrete, different rules apply for insulation and this should be surveyed by a specialist before and if any insulation is fitted.


A lot of contractors should have fitted special air vents as below, which can be a good sign that you have cavity wall insulation fitted and to a good standard of quality work. Many houses will find their old air vents have merely been blocked up with silicone to stop the cavity insulation falling out, which can be a worrying start if you’re seeking a survey or suffering damp.

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The good news is that most cavity wall insulation firms had to register the installation with CIGA – Cavity Insulation Guarantee Agency, which then offered a 25-year guarantee for the insulation, either themselves or through the installers insurance.
The bad news is that it can cost a considerable amount of time, money and work to rectify a bad installation.

Wall Cavity Claims is a legal services company who offer a free qualified survey to assess your cavity wall insulation and ensure it was installed correctly, and if not, we have access to specialist panel solicitors who work  No Win No Fee. 

Or call us FREEPHONE – from landlines & mobiles – call 0800-8-654321

WHAT IS WALL CAVITY INSULATION?

If your house was built after the 1920s, it is likely to have cavity walls. Older houses are more likely to have solid walls. If your home was built in the last 10 years, it was probably built with insulation installed at the time.

If you can see the brickwork on the outside of the house, look at the pattern of the bricks. If your home has cavity walls, the bricks will usually have a regular pattern like this:

insulation

If your home has solid walls, the bricks will have an alternating pattern like this:

p2

If the brickwork has been covered by render, you can also tell by measuring the width of the wall.  Examine a window or door on one of your external walls. If a brick wall is more than 3000mm thick, (from the outer wall to inner wall) then it probably has a cavity; a narrower wall is probably solid. Stone walls may be thicker still but are usually solid.

If your house is a steel-frame or timber-framed building, or is made from pre-fabricated concrete, different rules apply for insulation and this should be surveyed by a specialist before and if any insulation is fitted.

Modern technology tells us that up to 40% of our home energy heat can be lost through a cavity wall if not insulated. A Government backed scheme aimed to help fill these cavities with insulation and keep our homes warmer while reducing the amount of energy needed to warm our homes, and have a better impact on energy saving.

The product itself is really good, if the property is suitable and the installer has done proper pre-checks and installation, the difference can be outstanding. Millions of homes had the cavity wall insulation installed and it is estimated up to 3 million homes may be at risk of serious damp issues or even structural issues and health risks where the installation was not carried out to the agreed specifications.

If a cavity is not filled 100% compact, void areas can gather moisture and lead to damp. Where a cavity is not fully clean and cleared of debris, this can bridge the gap and again introduce moisture and cause damp. The lack of ‘brushing off’ a cavity that joins a neighbour’s property means insulation may seep out into the next door cavity and lead to voids in your walls, or cross contaminate if different materials are used. An active damp course should be in place to keep the damp to ground level and not reach the cavity wall insulation as this can soak and travel up the walls causing damp. There are many other reasons why incorrect installation can cause damp and other problems.

Those who installed the cavity wall insulation should have carried out a pre-survey assessment to ensure the property itself was suitable for cavity wall insulation and subsequently assessed that there were no hazards present that could cause failure and problems of the cavity wall insulation later down the line.

The good news is that most cavity wall insulation firms had to register the installation with CIGA – Cavity Insulation Guarantee Agency, which then offered a 25-year guarantee for the insulation.

The bad news is that it can cost a considerable amount of time, money and work to rectify a bad installation.
Wall Cavity Claims is a legal services company who offer a free survey to assess your cavity wall insulation and ensure it was installed correctly, and if not, we have access to specialist panel solicitors who work  No Win No Fee. 

Or call us FREEPHONE – from landlines & mobiles – call 0800-8-654321

Cavity Wall Insulation Extraction

Cavity wall insulation is removed by using an industrial vacuum type machine; the nozzle will be positioned in the brick wall using the drilling pattern the contractor used when installing the insulation. 
For the removal of insulation contractors will start from the base of the property, working their way up in the drilling pattern from the install.It’s important to check that all the insulation has been removed and that the cavity wall is free from any materials and that an active damp course is in place.

Cavity wall extraction usually takes around two days to complete although it would depend on the size of the property.

There are certain materials than can be extracted from cavity walls which are:

  • Expanded polystyrene beads
  • Rockwool mineral fibre
  • Whitewool glass mineral fibre
  • Loose/bonded urea formaldehyde insulation

The cost to complete an extraction and re-install can cost several thousands of pounds, always check your contractor has the right certification to do this work and is registered with www.ciga.co.uk
This process will typically be done when it has been proven the install was incorrect, is causing damp or other issues, and generally will require a full extraction, clean, and reinstallation if required.

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Different House Structures

Brick and block:Usually traditional houses were built with masonry blocks such as concrete blocks and bricks. The internal wall built with concrete blocks and the external wall built with bricks. Brickwork is built as a pattern that will support the structure of the house.

Timber frame:Timber frame construction is an internal structure which is designed to support the structure of the house. The timber frame is then cladded by a material such as brick that will then provide a finished look for the house.

Steel frame:Steel framework is a lightweight but a strong frame then cladded by a material such as brick.  The steel framework is also weather resistant, exterior panels are attached to the steel frame and then rendered.

 

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