Top tips for achieving an E EPC rating

With the new EPC changes coming into force in April 2018, those who invest in the private rented market should already be considering which energy efficient measures to implement in order to increase the EPC rating of their properties in the most cost effective way.

Not only will these actions benefit you as a landlord, increasing the value of your properties, but they will also make the homes you own more attractive to future tenants, while helping them save money on their bills.  

If the EPC rating on your property or properties is currently below E and you are looking where to start making changes.

Home insulation

Home insulation is one of the best things you can invest in to reduce heat loss and improve your EPC rating. In addition, there are various government grants available that cover a significant proportion of the costs which means that the insulation can often be installed with a small initial outlay. Here are the various options:

External wall insulation

This type of insulation is suitable for homes with solid brick walls – generally those built before 1920. Its quick and relatively easy to install, causing minimum disruption, and has the extra benefit of improving the property’s appearance and value. External wall insulation can also increase the life of the property by protecting the existing substrate from the, and can help with condensation problems. The result? Heating loss is reduced by up to 45% with annual savings of around £500.

Cavity wall insulation

Cavity wall insulation is also a quick process, often completed in a day. It is specifically for homes built post-1920 as the external walls are made of two layers with a gap – or cavity – between them. Cavity wall insulation fills that gap, keeping the warmth in to save energy. Although it is seems a great product, recent press says a lot of properties now have problems months or years after being fitted, and the full scale of the problem or reasons are not researched enough yet. Expect typical savings of around £160 per year if installed correctly.

Always check the firm doing the insulation is properly qualified and ask for some referrals for jobs they have already done.

Some people are now having to resort to legal action after the cavity insulation was fitted incorrectly, either pre-installation checks were not done right or the insulation itself wasn’t correct, and home owners now suffer from damp and mould and other ongoing issues.

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Loft insulation

It may come as a surprise, but an uninsulated or badly insulated house can lose up to 33% of its heat through the roof. Under Government recommendations, loft insulation should be at least 270mm thick – typically made up of a 100mm layer running between the joists and a 170mm top layer running perpendicular to the joists. Cost savings for this system are roughly the same as cavity wall insulation. 

Room in roof insulation

This has become more and more popular over the years as people choose to make the most of their loft by turning it into another bedroom, or office.

The installation is carried out by securing ‘insulating batts’ to the walls and ceiling of the room and slabs of insulation are fitted between them. The insulation is then covered with plasterboard and skimmed ready for decoration. Opting for room in roof insulation could lead to savings of over £500 per annum.

Smart storage heaters

Exactly what it says on the tin; smart storage heaters store and then release heat at pre-set times and temperatures. Not only are they up to 27% cheaper to run than a standard storage heater, they’re up to 47% cheaper to run than an electric convector heater, and often come with a boost option for unexpected heat demands (i.e. on those cold winter nights!) Look around for smart storage heaters that will benefit your EPC rating as not all of them do.

LED bulbs

LED bulbs are slightly more expensive to buy, but use 80% less energy than an incandescent or halogen bulbs. They also last and last, up to 25 times longer (drastically reducing replacement costs), are safer to work with and are more much environmentally-friendly as they contain no harmful substances like Mercury (often found in CFL and halogen bulbs).

Double Glazing

There are still many properties that have single glazed windows and the amount of heat and energy loss that can just flow straight out from your windows can be a massive 35%. Big bay windows are often worse than any others, and depending what curtains are up, heat and energy will flow out. Double Glazing reduces this down to about 8% and with good heavy curtains, can be reduced down to 5%


Cavity Wall Insulation Problems

The government is keen for home-owners to insulate their homes, but cavity walls were built as a barrier against penetrating dampness, So what happens when you fill an empty cavity with insulating material? Or in other words, when is a cavity wall not a cavity wall? Answer: when it is filled in.

Cavity Wall Insulation Facts

Cavity masonry walls were introduced on the exposed western coasts of Britain and Ireland in the nineteenth century, to stop wind-driven rain from penetrating to the inside surfaces. They gradually spread to other, dryer, parts of the country, because the air layer trapped in the cavity was found to provide a degree of thermal insulation. Since 1945 this insulation quality has been enhanced by using lightweight blocks, rather than bricks, to build the inner leaf of the wall. But the main reason for building cavity walls has always been to keep the rain out.

Since the late 1990s, the Building Regulations have required new houses to be built with insulation material in the cavity. As long as they are built properly, this insulation should not compromise the walls’ resistance to rain penetration, although the time test on mass survey after 10 and 15 and 20 years might prove different.

In most cases, the insulation is fixed to the inner leaf, leaving a narrow cavity to intercept any rainwater that penetrates the outer brick leaf. This insulation material is usually in the form of rigid foam boards, which are intrinsically waterproof, or semi-rigid mineral-wool or glass fibre “batts”, where the fibres are aligned vertically so that any penetrating rainwater should drain downwards in the cavity and not have the chance to penetrate across to the inner leaf. This is important, because the Building Research Establishment has found that single-leaf brick walls ALWAYS leak when exposed to wind-driven rain. The leakage occurs at the vertical (or “perp”) joints between adjacent bricks, because of drying shrinkage in the mortar. It is not a question of poor workmanship; it is an inevitable property of this form of construction.

Many readers with single-leaf brick garages attached to their cavity-walled homes, for example, complain that rainwater penetrates through from the outside when they are subjected to wind-driven rain, resulting in puddles on the garage floor. Well, if the rainwater is penetrating their garage walls, then the same thing will be happening to the brick outer leaves of their living rooms and bedrooms, but as long as the cavities are left clear, the water should run down the inside of the brickwork to foundation level and never be noticed. Until the recent fad for cavity wall insulation took hold, the only times rainwater penetration was a problem was when the steel wall ties were dirty with mortar droppings and/or built sloping downwards from outer leaf to inner leaf, or the cavity itself was blocked at low level with mortar droppings or other debris. In those cases penetrating rainwater could track across the cavity and show up as damp patches on internal decorative surfaces, but the solution was relatively simple – cut out a few bricks and clear the rubbish out of the cavity, or replace the offending wall ties.

Damp problems caused by cavity wall insulation

Until recently, dampness problems caused by cavity wall insulation have not generally occurred in houses where the insulation was built-in from new, although this is now changing, and the first accounts of dampness caused by built-in cavity batts are starting to come in.

Most problems occur in houses which were built prior to the 1990s, with clear cavities, which have subsequently been filled (referred to in the industry as “retro fill”). The material which has attracted most complaints is blown mineral-wool fibre. This material consists of loose fibres which – as the name suggests – are blown in through holes drilled in the brick outer leaf. The manufacturers and installers claim that the material is water-repellent, and that it cannot allow rainwater to penetrate across the cavity. However, industry researches show that – far from being waterproof – it can soak up water like blotting paper. Some sample properties surveyed by Wall Cavity Claims have been found to hold a startling 243 per cent moisture – ie nearly two and a half times their own weight in water.

Who regulates the Cavity Wall Insulation industry?

Many of our clients who say that, following installation of blown mineral-wool fibre, their inside walls have become damp and mouldy, and their homes have become uninhabitable and unsellable. And in every case the installers and their “guarantee” provider CIGA (the Cavity Insulation Guarantee Agency) has refused to acknowledge that the cavity wall insulation was the cause of their problems.

In every case the installers and CIGA have insisted that the dampness problems were due to construction faults in the building (even though these are supposed to be identified by the “surveyor” prior to installation) or to “lifestyle condensation” caused by the occupants (even though condensation had not been a problem prior to the CWI), bad property maintenance, or some other unsubstantiated ‘get out response.

However there have been many cases where homeowners have taken their cases to litigation and won the argument. In 2015, the issue was also been discussed in parliament and the whole industry now remains on watch.

Can cavity wall insulation allow rainwater across the cavity?

Despite the constant insistence by manufacturers and installers that cavity wall insulation cannot allow rainwater to cross the cavity, the Building Research Establishment has found that it can. Their findings have been published in a number of BRE publications, notably BRE Good Building Guide 44: part 2: “Insulating masonry cavity walls – principal risks and guidance” (available from This states, “There can be an increased risk of rain penetration if a cavity is fully filled with insulation, ie moisture is able to transfer from the outer to the inner leaves resulting in areas of dampness on internal finishes. Rainwater, under certain driving rain conditions, can penetrate the outer leaf of masonry leading to wetting of the cavity insulation, a reduced thermal performance and damage to internal finishes.”

The guidance document contains a table indicating the maximum exposure zones recommended for cavity wall insulation, for different cavity widths and different types of insulation material. There are many variables in this table, and as much as we would like to, this blog is long enough already, so we do not have room to explain them all here. But for the typical British house with face brickwork and 50mm cavities, the maximum recommended exposure is Zone 1 or Zone 2.

As might be expected, Zone 1 is in the east of the country, and Zones 2, 3 and 4 are those progressively further west, with Zone 4 including the west of Scotland, west Wales, Cornwall and parts of Somerset and Dorset. The map describing these exposure zones (the British Standard wind-driven rain index) is reproduced in several BRE publications, including “Good Building Guide 44: Part 2”, “Thermal Insulation: avoiding risks”, and also in British Standard BS8104, and in Building Regulations Approved Document C (which can be downloaded free from

The map gives a broad outline of those areas most likely to be affected by wind- driven rain (which is pretty much common sense anyway). But local conditions are also important; an exposed west-facing wall on high ground in London will possibly receive more rain than a sheltered wall in Cornwall (eg a house on an estate, close to other houses, which take the brunt of the prevailing weather). Many of the complaints we receive about dampness caused by cavity wall insulation have been from Exposure Zones 3 and 4, but we have also had complaints from London, Suffolk, Norfolk, Cambridgeshire and Lincolnshire – all firmly in Exposure Zone 1, so, that goes to show there’s no rules here.

What percentage of properties with cavity wall insulation experience dampness problems?

There are no statistics about this as yet, because no proper research has been done. The manufacturers, installers, CIGA and HM Govt (through their quango the Energy Saving Trust) all now seem to acknowledge that cavity wall insulation can cause dampness problems, but the scale and how to deal has yet to be organised. We suspect that the problem is fairly widespread, however, and under-reported, for several reasons:

  1. A lot of people haven’t yet made the link between Cavity Wall Insulation and damp and mould issues, and every time we mention it, we receive enquiries from consumers complaining that their homes have become damp following cavity wall insulation. In most cases, they have not previously reported the problem to anyone else. Where they have previously complained to the installers or the funding authority (either their local authority, energy provider, Help the Aged or the Government’s Warm Front scheme) they have been given the line that the cavity insulation cannot possibly have caused their dampness problems.
  2. Many consumerscomplain that, following cavity wall insulation, they have suddenly started to experience “increased condensation”. They often put this down to a decrease in the “breathability” of their walls (or to the blocking-up of airbricks by the CWI installers – a surprisingly common occurrence), and compensate by opening windows to dry their homes out. They do not realise that the source of the extra water running down their windows and dripping from their ceilings is rainwater penetrating via the cavity wall insulation, and so have not reported it to anyone.
  3. People who have not noticed visible dampness problems in their homes have nevertheless sometimes not experienced the expected savings in their fuel costs following CWI. In some cases, their fuel bills have actually got higher following cavity wall insulation. Others have reported that, whilst not experiencing obvious dampness problems, their homes seem to have become noticeably colder following CWI. This is because blown mineral-wool fibre has to become only slightly damp (around one per cent by volume) to lose all of its insulation properties. Any damper than this, and it will actually start to draw heat out of the house, as damp insulation is worse than no insulation at all, in the same way that a damp vest will make you colder than wearing no vest.
  4. Infra-red imaging companies have surveyed 250,000 properties across the UK and found that one-third of homes are well insulated, one-third have no insulation at all, and one-third have damp, slumping or missing insulation. The third with no insulation at all will include all the solid-walled Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian houses. The other two-thirds will be predominantly cavity-walled properties, and these statistics indicate that HALF of these are likely to have faulty insulation. CIGA itself has issued six million guarantees, so if these stats and findings hold true, this would indicate that some three million UK homes have current or potential CWI problems.

Problems with gaps in the insulation, or only some walls being insulated

It should be added that even where it does not transmit rainwater across the cavity, CWI can still create dampness problems through increased condensation. Research has shown that 40 percent of houses whose cavity walls have been filled with blown mineral fibre suffer from gaps in the insulation, and it is these voids which cause condensation and black mould on the walls inside. Because, in a house which has been only partially insulated, the temperature still rises, and with it, the humidity – the amount of water vapour held in the air. And any remaining cold spots will therefore experience more condensation than before. Common areas for condensation and black mould growth are near ground level, between windows, and at ceiling level in upstairs bedrooms.

The insulation installers are supposed to do a thorough survey of the cavity, and proceed only if the wall meets strict British Standards. In practice, hardly any cavity walls meet these standards, as they all have unfilled mortar joints, debris dropped down the cavity, and wall-ties covered with mortar droppings. But the installers pressed on regardless, and these imperfections and obstructions catch the insulation and stop it from filling the cavity evenly.

Another problem is insulation sinking to the bottom of the cavity, leaving cold areas at the top of the house or below windows, ripe for mould growth. Insiders say this is often due to insufficient fibre being used – a common problem with contractors employed on bulk contracts claiming the government subsidy, but who are insulating up to five houses per day at a price of only £100 each, when a good professional job should take a whole day, and cost at least £500. (If you have had blown fibre cavity insulation, and you suspect that it has settled, leaving gaps, then you can check for this by drilling holes near the top of the bedroom walls and inserting a fishing weight on a piece of string.)(There’s an easier and more professional FREE service we will tell you about soon).

Even when a cavity has been properly filled with mineral-wool fibre, the material may well still break down and collapse over time. The fibres themselves become brittle and the material simply compacts under its own weight. How long does this take? – nobody knows, because the problem has never been independently researched. We suspect it happens much more quickly than most people realise – perhaps within five to ten years, leaving a massive issue which is just coming to light in these years.

Are other materials better than blown mineral-wool fibre?

There are two other materials commonly used for cavity wall insulation – bonded polystyrene beads, and foam. If properly installed, these materials should theoretically be superior to mineral-wool fibre, as they are inherently waterproof. Neither material is used as widely as mineral-wool fibre because of cost. It can take two or three days to inject a house with either of these materials, and the cost is likely to be several hundred pounds, so they are not favoured by the government-funded schemes (which budget on around £100 per house for mineral-wool fibre). Neither material is without its problems, however, but a much lower number of complaints come from those who’s cavity was filled with bonded polystyrene beads and the property corrected vented and brushed off.

Bonded polystyrene bead insulation has been reported to transmit rainwater across cavities. Although the individual polystyrene beads themselves are waterproof, if the cavity filling is incomplete, it can leave voids which are able to fill with water, and depending on the configuration of the voids, these can channel water across the cavity, instead of

Dripping straight down as advertised. Again, no rule of thumb seems to apply and each property can be affected differently

Dampness caused by Poly bead cavity insulation” (Photo Elaine Salveta)

The main complaints with bonded polystyrene beadsis that the bonding can be insufficient, allowing the beads to “escape”. Some readers have reported that when carrying out building alterations involving cutting into insulated walls, the beads have sometimes poured out of the wall. Others have reported beads escaping through airbricks, or blowing out of the top of the cavities into loft spaces, or even out through soffit vents into the gutters. There was an acknowledged problem with one particular brand of bonded polystyrene bead insulation widely used in the 1990s, which was put down to poor site supervision of the process – the adhesive has to be mixed with the poly beads immediately before they are injected into the wall – and this is said to have now been rectified. But any process that relies on on-site mixing will obviously always be prone to human error. Also, as with all modern plastics and adhesives, the technology has only been around for a relatively short time, and it is not known how well the material will age.

As we see on many houses showing damp problems after having cavity wall insulation installed with beads, contractors merely sealed the air vents with nothing more than silicone to prevent the beads leaking, which in turn stops your property ‘breathing’. If bits of damp did enter your cavity, and your air vents were sufficient, in the summer weather especially, the walls would heat, the damp would warm and vents would allow condensation to escape. Where the air vents are blocked, the damp is in and stays in, and just gets worse!

Where low vents are blocked, this can also cause damp to affect floors and bring a  whole host of serious issues.

Ant infestation in Poly bead cavity insulation.

It has to be mixed on-site prior to injection, and also has an uncertain longevity. All foam materials become brittle and shrink with age. This is the reason why old fridges and freezers become less efficient, for example, as they are lined with foam insulation which gradually disintegrates.

Builders and DIYers have reported cutting into cavity walls filled with foam and finding nothing more than a layer of brown dust at the bottom.

We have also received complaints of cracking damage – mainly to internal wall surfaces – following foam cavity wall insulation which, if proven, might possibly be due to the expansive force of the foam as it cures. If any readers have had similar experiences please contact us with details.

Some years ago there were concerns that urea formaldehyde foam cavity wall insulation might accelerate corrosion in galvanised steel wall ties, following several reported incidents of wall tie failure. Investigation by the Building Research Establishment failed to find definitive evidence that this was the case, although one particular type of wall tie (thin galvanised “butterfly” ties with a green coating) were advised to be possibly at risk, pending further investigation.

But it is important to realise that any type of iron or steel cavity wall tie is likely to have its life shortened following any type of cavity wall insulation. This is because the insulation – by definition – keeps the warmth on the room side of the wall (the inner leaf), therefore making the cavity itself, and the outer leaf, cooler. So warm moist air from inside the house will find its way through the wall, and condense out on the cooler wall ties, both in the cavity and where they are embedded in the mortar of the outer leaf. Where the cavity insulation is itself wet, then clearly it will be holding moisture in close contact with the wall ties, and hence accelerate their corrosion.

Wall tie corrosion

Wall ties are vital for the structural integrity of a cavity wall, as they hold the inner and outer leaves of masonry together. Being made of iron or steel, they will inevitably rust eventually, but in dry conditions they should last for many years. When persistently damp, however, they can corrode much quicker, and replacing them is a costly and time-consuming process, involving cutting out dozens of individual bricks from the outer leaf. Replacing corroded wall ties becomes much more difficult in a building with cavity wall insulation, as the insulation itself has to be removed around each tie, and then replaced afterwards.

Anyone thinking of having cavity wall insulation installed should first have the condition of their home’s wall ties assessed using the method described in BRE Digest 401, which specifies that two bricks should be removed on each elevation (at high and low levels) and tested for corrosion. Inspecting ties by drilling a hole in the outer leaf and looking through a boroscope is not a satisfactory way of assessing their condition, as the most serious corrosion is likely to be where the ties are embedded in the mortar. Wall tie corrosion is a growing problem, and mortgage valuation surveyors are increasingly recommending that wall ties should be inspected as a condition of a mortgage advance. It is likely that the widespread presence of retro-fill CWI will increase surveyors’ alertness to the possibility of wall tie corrosion, and might therefore create delays when homes with cavity wall insulation are put on the market. Homes most at risk of wall tie corrosion are those built with wrought-iron “fish-tail” ties prior to 1920, and those built with galvanised steel “butterfly” ties between 1964 and 1981. Any house about to have its cavity walls insulated is supposed to be inspected and assessed for suitability by “a trained surveyor” (ie a salesman for the insulation installers), but we have never come across a case where the wall ties have been assessed using the correct method. In most cases the “surveyor” simply drills a hole in the outer leaf and measures the width of the cavity.

We have also recently heard of a case where a mortgage valuation surveyor has recommended refusal of a mortgage application on a house with retro-fit cavity wall insulation – the reason given being enhanced probability of wall-tie corrosion. This could lead to more complicated legal issues when selling or buying a hosue.


There are many people who have had cavity wall insulation installed, who have experienced no problems with internal dampness or wall tie corrosion, and have experienced increased levels of comfort and lower fuel bills. Unfortunately there are also a lot of people who have suffered serious problems, and who have found it very difficult – or impossible – to get these problems recognised and rectified.

The cavity insulation industry, and government agencies, do themselves no favours by pretending that these problems do not exist, as now hundreds of cases are reported each week. My own opinion is that injecting insulation into an existing cavity wall is a bad idea, with the potential to create problems whose rectification costs will far outweigh any savings in fuel costs, or corresponding environmental benefits. The best way to add thermal insulation to the walls of an existing home is on the outside or the inside, where the installation can be carried out under controlled site conditions, and any subsequent defects easily spotted and rectified. Installing insulation in an existing cavity wall by drilling holes in the outer leaf and squirting something in – in the hope that everything will be alright, even though you can’t see it – creates possibilities for a range of problems.


If you have been affected by cavity wall insulation problems – you can get help from a specialist claims management company and solicitor who like Wall Cavity Claims, offer a free, no obligation Cavity Inspection Survey and will collect evidence and have it assessed by a specialist solicitor. If the solicitor agrees there is a fault present they will act on your behalf on a No Win No Fee agreement.

Many people think that any claim would go to CIGA, who issues the 25 year guarantee, but this isn’t the case. In most cases, the claim is brought against the contractor who undertook the installation, and who would have (or should have) an effective professional insurance policy in place, which insures the consumer. There are hundreds of contractor firms and quite worryingly, some of these have now stopped trading and insurers cannot be located and so the problem is left ‘high and dry’ with the house owner currently, so it’s important to act fast and act today. There’s nothing guaranteed fully, so take action as quickly as possible.

Keeping your house warm

Keeping your house warm

Heat energy is transferred from homes by conduction through the walls, floor, roof and windows. It is also transferred from homes by convection. For example, cold air can enter the house through gaps in doors and windows, and convection currents can transfer heat energy in the loft to the roof tiles. Heat energy also leaves the house by radiation through the walls, roof and windows.

Heat in your home is lost through:

  • Having no insulation in your loft, to avoid losing heat from your loft have it lined with insulation. This is a relatively easy process and not too expensive, and can reduce the heat loss through your roof space by almost 40%
  • Heat escapes out of windows.It is without doubt best to have double glazed windows, and also have good quality curtains up to keep heat in.
  • Having gaps around your doors and windows will let heat escape easily from your home. Fitting of adhesive draught excluders is again relatively easy and cheap to do and will seal the main part or all of the gaps.
  • Having cavity wall insulation filled in all your walls. Ensure your house is suitable for cavity wall insulation and that a proper pre-survey inspection is done and any remedial work is carried out to problematic areas prior to the installation.
  • Having carpet fitted on the floors also helps keep the heat in. Wherever possible, always use a quality underlay which will insulate at the same time as being comfortable.

Red areas on this thermal image show where the heat is most concentrated to escape from inside to the cold of the outside.

If you’ve had Cavity Wall Insulation fitted in the last 15 years, your walls could be having damp issues which may be showing signs such as damp and mould, and a lot of homes will not be so obvious that faults are lurking.

Visit  today and find out more.

Finlock Gutters and Cavity Wall Insulation

Finlock gutters are also known as concrete gutters, which are common with houses that have had cavity wall insulation installed. Finlock gutters were added on to new build properties is the 1950’s and 1960’s.

Finlock gutters are made of concrete blocks which can range from 8 inches to 12 inches and are joined together using mortar.

Finlock gutters were designed to be maintenance free, however they are now starting to deteriorate due to the concrete being an unsuitable material for guttering.

Where any issues start with this type of guttering, on top of an already problematic cavity wall installation, the issues may appear with much more speed.

Main problems with finlock gutters are:

  • Interior damp, which can lead to mould
  • External or internal leaks
  • External mould patches
  • Water not flowing though the gutters properly
  • Gutters starting to fall apart.

The only way to solve any of these problems happening is by having the finlock gutters taken away and replaced with a more suitable guttering system.

If you’ve got problems with mould, damp, mildew, condensation, and have Finlock gutters, act sooner rather than later. Call Wall Cavity Claims today on Freephone 0800-8-654321